A roof that holds up in high wind is built from the inside out: a deck nailed down tightly and sealed at its seams, edges that are locked in place, roof-to-wall connections that resist uplift, and a covering rated for wind and installed as its maker requires. The shingle is the part you see, but FEMA and IBHS both put most of their advice into what sits under it and around its edges. Before a storm, the useful jobs are a professional inspection, clear gutters, trimmed branches and photographs of the roof as it stands.
This guide covers the upgrades a roofer can do, what to ask for on an estimate, and what to do in the days before a storm. It is general information, not engineering or insurance advice.
Why wind gets under a roof
FEMA says the border of a roof, meaning the eaves, the rake edges and the edge metal, is more often damaged by wind uplift and wind-driven rain than the rest of it. Once a shingle or a strip of edge metal lifts, the wind has more to grab. Our guide to storm damage to your roof shows how that damage looks from the ground.
IBHS warns that aging asphalt shingles can fail at wind speeds well below hurricane force, letting wind-driven rain into the house (IBHS news release, April 28, 2026). So the age of the roof is part of its wind rating, whatever the label said when it was new.
The upgrades that matter, in order
FEMA's guidance for sloped roofs and its retrofit guide for houses overlap closely. Here are the measures, with the source of each.
| Measure | What it means | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Better deck attachment | Ring-shank or deformed-shank nails, set closer together, instead of smooth nails or staples | FEMA fact sheet 3.3.1 (March 2022) |
| A sealed roof deck | The seams between deck panels taped or covered, so rain cannot enter if the covering blows off | FEMA P-804 overview (July 2023); FLASH |
| Locked-down edges | A drip edge fastened to the roof and an adhered starter strip | IBHS (April 28, 2026); FEMA P-804 |
| A wind-rated covering | Shingles tested to a recognised standard and installed as the maker directs | FEMA P-804; FEMA fact sheet 3.3.1 |
| Roof-to-wall connections | Metal straps or ties in place of toe-nailing | FEMA fact sheet 3.3.1 |
| Gable end bracing | Bracing for the triangular end wall of a gable roof | FEMA fact sheet 3.3.1 |
Nails and the deck
FEMA's fact sheet says to use ring-shank nails for all wood nailing on the roof, and to avoid staples in high-wind areas. It says decks of plywood or OSB should be rated for high wind, usually marked Exposure 1 or better. Where an older roof has too few nails in the deck, FEMA suggests closing the gap by driving more nails at a tighter spacing, or by adding closed-cell spray foam from the attic side to bond the deck to the rafters or trusses. Our guide to decking and underlayment covers deck types and what a replacement costs.
Sealing the deck
If wind strips the covering, the deck seams are where rain enters. FLASH, the Federal Alliance for Safe Homes, lists four ways to add a second water barrier: tape the seams, add a second layer of felt, cover the whole deck with a self-adhering membrane, or spray foam under the deck. Citing IBHS research, it says a sealed deck can keep out as much as 90 percent of the wind-driven rain that would otherwise come in through the joints (January 15, 2026). FLASH adds that some state building codes now require sealed decks on new and replacement roofs, so ask your roofer what applies where you live.
Edges
The edges take the hardest pull. IBHS's list for a re-roof calls for edges locked down with an adhered starter strip and a securely fastened drip edge. See our drip edge guide for what the part is.
The covering and its wind rating
Two lab standards sort asphalt shingles by wind resistance. Writing in NRCA's Professional Roofing (September 2018), Mark Graham explains that ASTM D3161 blows air across test decks for two hours, at 60, 90 or 110 mph, giving Classes A, D and F. ASTM D7158 calculates the uplift on a shingle and compares it with the shingle's resistance, and its Class H is the top class.
Two limits apply. The D3161 text says its results "do not directly correlate to wind speeds experienced in service." And a rating only holds when the shingle is nailed in the right place and sealed. FEMA says nails must go in the nailing zone or on the nail line, close to the centerline if the shingle has none, so that they catch the shingle below. IBHS says the strength of the seal between shingles is the most important factor in how a self-sealing shingle performs in high wind. FEMA also suggests dabs or lines of asphalt roof cement under shingles along eaves, rakes, hips and ridges.
This is why a good installer matters as much as the product. If you are not sure your roof is worth strengthening at all, our guide to repairing or replacing a roof helps you decide.
Connections and gable ends
FEMA's fact sheet describes metal rafter ties or straps, sometimes called hurricane straps, that replace toe-nailing at the roof-to-wall joint and add uplift resistance. It says gable end walls are at risk in hurricanes because wind can push or pull them over if they are not braced, and recommends bracing for gable ends more than 4 feet tall. This is structural work, so it is for a contractor and, where needed, an engineer. FEMA also notes that connection hardware near the coast can corrode, and that standard hardware from a local store may not meet code.
A standard to follow: FORTIFIED and FEMA P-804
You do not have to make these choices from scratch. FEMA's Wind Retrofit Guide for Residential Buildings in Hurricane-Prone Regions, P-804, second edition (2023), groups retrofits into three cumulative packages: Basic, Intermediate and Advanced. The Basic package, done with a new covering, means checking and improving the deck attachment, sealing the deck, improving the drip edge details and installing wind-resistant coverings. FEMA says these packages meet or exceed the matching FORTIFIED Home Hurricane designations. Our guide to the IBHS FORTIFIED roof standard explains the certificate and its cost.
Before a storm
Retrofits take weeks, not days. These are the jobs you can still do before a named storm, drawn from IBHS, Ready.gov and Triple-I.
- Get the roof inspected by a professional and make repairs, as IBHS advises ahead of the season. FEMA's fact sheet says to inspect at least twice a year and after high-wind events.
- Clear gutters and downspouts, and trim trees and branches near the roof.
- Bring in loose items such as furniture, and close and lock doors, windows and garage doors.
- Check your policy. Triple-I says hurricane and windstorm deductibles are usually a percentage, generally 1 to 5 percent of the insured value of the home's structure, and the declarations page says when each applies. On a $300,000 home, 5 percent means the first $15,000 is yours (Triple-I). Confirm your policy is current and keep copies of it in a secure digital place, as Ready.gov advises.
- Photograph the roof and the house now, from the ground and from each side. A dated record of the roof before a storm helps you show what changed. Triple-I notes that a home inventory can speed up a claim. Our guide to the roof insurance claim covers documenting damage after the storm.
Do not climb onto the roof to do any of this. A roofer or inspector should do work at height, and a storm warning is not the time for a ladder.
After the wind
Look from the ground for missing, lifted or creased shingles, damaged edge metal and water stains inside. If water is coming in, see our guide to emergency roof repair for temporary protection. Our guide to the roof insurance claim covers what to tell your insurer and what to keep before permanent repairs.
If you plan to replace the roof, timing matters. Our guide to the best time to replace a roof covers the seasons.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best roof for high winds?
No single material wins. FEMA says metal panels can be used if they are tested to your area's wind requirements and installed per a site-specific analysis, and that asphalt shingles can be improved with the measures above. How the roof is attached and sealed matters as much as the material. For hail, see impact-resistant shingles.
Does a higher wind rating mean my roof will survive a hurricane?
No. The ASTM text says results do not directly correlate to wind speeds in service, and the test does not account for the height or exposure of your building. A rating helps you compare products, but installation and the roof's age count too.
Can I strengthen an existing roof without replacing it?
Partly. FEMA's retrofit guide lists a Basic option without replacing the covering: sealing and strengthening the roof deck, and improving the water resistance of attic vents. Most upgrades, such as new nails, a drip edge and a sealed deck, are easiest when the covering is off.
Is it worth doing this before a storm is forecast?
Yes, if you can. The measures need time and a roofer's schedule. When a storm is days away, stick to the inspection, clearing gutters, trimming branches, bringing items in and taking photographs.
Do hurricane straps need an engineer?
FEMA describes the straps, but the right connector depends on your framing and your local wind loads. Ask your roofer and your local building department, and use an engineer where they say you need one.
Where this information comes from
HomeAnvil does not publish wind or insurance data of its own. Each fact on this page comes from the source named beside it, all read on October 13, 2026:
- FEMA, Fact sheet 3.3.1: Roof systems, sloped roofs, March 2022, from the Hurricane and Flood Mitigation Handbook for Public Facilities: nails, sheathing, shingles, connections, gable ends and inspection. The handbook is written for public buildings, and we apply it to houses only where the roof elements are the same.
- FEMA, Overview of FEMA P-804 (2023), July 2023: the retrofit packages and their link to FORTIFIED.
- IBHS, Ahead of hurricane season, IBHS urges homeowners to prepare now, April 28, 2026: roof and home preparation.
- IBHS, Wind uplift of asphalt shingles: the seal between shingles. The page shows no date.
- FLASH, Sealed roof decks, underlayment and secondary water barriers, January 15, 2026.
- Professional Roofing (NRCA), The wind resistance of shingles, September 1, 2018: the ASTM D3161 and D7158 classes and their limits.
- Triple-I, Hurricane season insurance guide: wind deductibles. The page shows no update date.
- Ready.gov, Hurricanes: home protection and document steps.
Building codes, wind loads and insurance terms vary. Your policy and local building department decide what applies to you. We will update this page when these sources change, and the date above will say when.
Related guides
Storm damage to your roof: how to tell and what to doWind damage usually starts at a roof's edges. How to spot lifted, creased and missing shingles and debris damage, and what to do in the first 72 hours.
Are Class 4 impact-resistant shingles worth it?Class 4 shingles pass a 2-inch impact test under UL 2218 or FM 4473. IBHS found top-rated ones cost about 9% more per square. What the rating does not promise.
Roof decking and underlayment: what they are and costReplacing roof decking costs $2 to $5 a square foot; a sheet of plywood or OSB runs $9 to $64. How the deck, underlayment and ice barrier work.
When is the best time to replace a roof?Asphalt shingles seal best in warm, dry weather; below 40°F makers call for hand-sealing. How weather, contractor demand and storm season shape your timing.
How does a roof insurance claim work after a storm?Insurance usually pays for sudden wind or hail damage, not wear. Wind/hail deductibles often run 1% to 5% of your home's insured value. How a claim works.
Roofing emergency: what to do and who should tarp itAn open roof or active leak needs a tarp, not a repair. Emergency tarping costs $150 to $3,300, about $450 on average (HomeAdvisor). Safety, receipts, the fix.- What help is there for a storm-damaged roof?After a declared disaster, insurance pays first. FEMA home repair aid, Operation Blue Roof tarping and SBA disaster loans can fill gaps. What each is and how to apply.
- What is an IBHS FORTIFIED roof?A FORTIFIED Roof is a voluntary storm standard: sealed deck, ring-shank nails, stronger edges and a rated covering. It adds about $1,000 to $3,000 to a re-roof.
- What do you do when a tree falls on your roof?Get people out, stay 35 feet from downed lines, call 911 or your utility, then your insurer. Who removes the tree, the usual $500 removal limit and tarping.